Ceiling clearance required for body removal

Trying to figure out if I can remove the body inside my garage. I have a large heating duct on my ceiling. Hoping this will not restrict things too much if either the bonnet or boot area is under the duct. Looks like it will be close but doable.

How far up does the roof of the car have to go to allow the chassis to be rolled out from underneath the raised body?

Any advise appreciated.

Stu,

You need to clear the rear strut towers. Add sill to roof height to floor to top of body height at the rear strut position.

Get the tape measure out! :slight_smile:

Roy,
'65 S2

when I did the body lift I remember the door handles being at eye level…
I’m 5’10"…so take off about 4" from the top of my head to my eyes and I reckon the door handles need to get to about 5’6"…

just an approximation

cheers
G

heres a pic of what I mean
:smiley:

Nice! that looks like a slighty modified lottype26aoooupintheair special lift and body support tool! :laughing: Curly

Has anyone attempted a jig - for hoisting from overhead or jacking from below - based on a pair of side rails with upward-facing pins to go into the jacking points in the sills?
I am planning (far?) ahead and would take a good look at the integrity of the sill reinforcements first. This would be a +2-specific way to lift the body off.
Cheers, John in Virginia

Hi John,

I made this up quite a few years ago. The cradle is made up of two 1" box triangles, with pins which fit into the jacking points. These are bolted to a 2" box cross arm, with a central bracket to attach to the hoist. I made the triangles isosceles in the mistaken belief that the jacking points were balanced, but I had to put 90lbs (two concrete blocks :smiley: ) on the front to get it to hang level. So I would bias the top point maybe 6" to the rear if I was doing it again.

BTW, the roof of the Plus 2 is at 2.20M (7’5") in the photo

Sean

PS:

If space is tight: don’t forget the chassis and the rear towers will lift a good few inches as the weight of the body comes off the springs :smiley:
You can get another few inches if you take the wheels off.
And more again if you remove the suspensions…

Sean

We removed the body off my Just 2 in my garage and the rafters are around 6’ 6". We took it sideways so the strut towers went through the differential area so that may have gained a little clearance.

I figure if you’ve got 7 feet of ceiling in a two car garage you should be able to do it.

Rob

As usual most helpful guys.

The clearance issue in the garage (plan A) may work, as I think I can position the bonnet area under the duct and the boot area under the garage door. After all, I just have to get it off, roll the chassis out from underneath, and lower the body onto some sort of dolly affair to roll onto the trailer. As advised, I will get out the tape measure and go from there.

Something similar to Sean’s solution is my plan B. Luckily ran into a friend today (Vic) who is into Brit bike & car restoration. He not only has a trailer available to haul the removed body to the body shop, but has some scaffold frames that should work if we have insufficient clearance in the garage. Most particularly appreciate the balance point advice!

I have checked the side rails and confirmed they have been replaced by PO and are in good shape. Am planning the 1/2" bolt and wood side frame/cradle idea as primary hoisting method. Have confirmed 1/2" bolt fits jacking points well.

Planning photo’s of the event for sure. I mean really, how often do you build a whole car!

Getting really excited about this whole deal. Sure the better half will come around when she sees the progress! :laughing:

Getting parts order finalized, shipping costs outlined now from Andy, and just finalizing a few items.
Have drawn up a realistic schedule as per advice in Gord Lund’s book. :open_mouth: Looks like a busy winter! Schedule shows LOTS of work prior to arrival of parts from Spyder, which is great. Have left time for other commitments, Christmas etc. so I actually think this is doable.
Have tentatively booked window with the body dude, which will get body off site for quite a while. Vic has trailer to assist with hauling.
Lining up storage for other car and motorcycle to make sure I have workspace for the project. Have a couple of options, will finalize shortly.
Thinking as per Gord’s book to rent close by temp storage for parts such as seats, etc. that are not needed until next spring. Space is tight, and this seems a worthwhile way to go.
Have sorted out engine repairs and diff check-out (water pump mainly, preventative check on dif) with local mechanic Malcolm (lots of Lotus experience).
Malcolm sufficiently enthused with project he said he will help with body re-install & chassis tapping; has done several “back in the day” when apprenticing.
Received advice from Vic to “go for it” with soda blasting of body. Have found a guy locally that rents the space, equipment, booth, safety gear and all materials/cleanup on a hourly rate. Vic has done this before with bike frames, etc. using same guy’s equipment.
Got hub removal tool and wiring tools on order from RD.

Anyway, sorry for length, but thanks again for the great advice. I am certain I am going to need a bit of help/encouragement over this winter, but really looking forward. As usual, if you think of some thing I have missed let me know.

If space is restricted in the workshop, but you have room outside, you could always put up one of these portable garages:

cgi.ebay.co.uk/Protech-Shelters- … 286.c0.m14

There’s enough headroom to lift the body and then leave it in there. Gives you a lot more room in the workshop to park the old rolling chassis, layout the new chassis and bits, and refurbish / transfer the parts from old to new.

Mark

I used Vermette “Hi Jackers” lifts. They are made here in the U.S… I borrowed them from a friend in the heat / a/c business. The lifts made body removal and replaceent an easy one man job. I have attached photo.

Possibly a similar set of lifts is available in the Uk for rent or inexpensive purchase as used.

Pictued is placing body on rolling chassis for paint removal. I wet sanded my paint off. Very time consuming but safe. Will never do that again. Plastic media blast is quick and safe.

Bob[/i]

This thread has photos I took when replacing the body on my frame (2-seater, not Plus 2). I slung the body from a hook in the garage ceiling, hoisted, and slid the frame (with almost nothing mounted) underneath from the side on jacks. Lowered the body to plastic crates, removed the ropes (which went under the body), and jacked the frame up into the body. In retrospect, I’m a little surprised I didn’t injure myself or the car!