I just ordered a spary can of Hammerite light blue hammered finish for my cam cover. I didn’t quite realize that Hammerite primer is recommended over aluminum, and besides the primer doesn’t come in spray cans. Is there a primer other than Hammerite that works? Any other tips for using Hammerite? What’s the best way to prep the cam cover before painting?
Andrew,
I have used the Duplicolor self etching primer in the spray bomb, and had no trouble with the Hammerite lifting. The self etching primer works well on aluminum and dries quickly. After the initial cleaning an prep of the cam cover, use a rag with acetone or lacquer thinner to remove any cleaning residue and oils from your hands left on the surface. When dry, heat the cover with a heat lamp or halogen lamp which will aid in drying the primer quickly. The self etching primer is stinky and dangerous to inhale. Ventillate the room or take the piece outside to spray and return to the warmth of the lamp. Use light coats and let dry for a couple of minutes between coats. A light coat first then 2 or 3 more moderately thick coats will do. It doesn’t have to be thick as the Hammerite will be a pretty thick finish. Use the heat lamp to dry this too.
Good Luck
Greg
One more thing to clarify, 2 or 3 light coats of primer. The self etching primer will dry pretty fast with the heat lamp. After about 15 minutes its dry to the touch and you can top coat with the Hammerite. The hammerite dries slowly so don’t spray on too thick at each coat. They suggest not recoating after 4 hours or so because the paint will blister up . Respray in about 15 to 20 minute intervals. 2 or 3 coats should do. Let dry completely as the paint takes a while to cure. The heat lamp helps!
Hi everyone, anybody got the latest tips on how to reproduce the “Lotus Cam Cover Hammerite Blue” for a perfect original colour match?
I’ve got two covers that both have some original blue left on them for matching purposes, if necessary can take paint chips or a whole cover to a paint matcher. I wonder whether Rex Colliver in Melbourne would know which paint shop in Victoria has supplied it’s fair share of paint for Twin Cam motors??
I see that Hammerite themselves still offer a blue in their hammered style finish…
Would also like to know what colour best matches Cosworth Engine Block Red!!!
Here is my effort, I did a bit of research and I believe it is near to the colour but have seen them different shades usually darker so who knows what the original was! I did not use a primer as according to the tin it is not necessary but I don’t know if that applies to alloy.
Its been on for about six months now and so far no problems although it has not had a great deal of use.
As for preparation I stripped the old paint off with Nitromors, washed the cam cover with thinners and sprayed it on a warm day.
or wait until the wife is out turn the oven on to around 45 degrees C and warm it thoroughly. A quick paint and back into dry. A Cam cover just fits - don’t ask I how I know this or tell the wife!!
hi andrew
I have painted lots of early cam covers and after extensive research found that the hammerite light blue is the correct colour!..as for the preparation
what i do is strip it back to the bare alloy…and you will find most are quite rough!..i then spray it using 2 pack primer which dries rock hard and you can rub it down with 320 wet and dry paper!..this will smooth out all the imperfections and give you a good base for your top coats!..I use a tin rather
than an aerosol which gives a more consistent finish!..wnen your cover has fully dried out it can be compounded\polished it the normal way to give you a really good shine
Can someone please point me to a mail-order source for Hammerite in the US (preferred as it is easier for me) or the UK.
I am tidying up an old Italian car, which uses a Hammerite finish on the oil breather catch can. The color wouldn’t be right on my Elan, but, seeing the lovely blue finish in the pictures posted above (especially the blue cover), I am now minded to repaint one of the cam covers on my wall .
Alas you can’t really rely on the colour you see in a photo on your computer; the shade you see depends so much on the original camera or scanner and the settings on your own computer screen.
You would need a colour reference chart in the photo & then adjust your screen until the colour reference matched one in your hand and only then could you trust the shade of the object of interest.
One of the covers that I’m getting set to paint looks like it’s been sitting outside since 1965!! - It is still AOK structurally, but 90% of the original paint is gone leaving the aluminium surface to go “fluffy” (not sure that oxidized is the right word either) - having no electric polisher, should I set to with steel wool to clean it up?
I’m not rushing to the sand/bead blaster - don’t want a slip of the trigger to create pitting…
Edit 9 Dec - Wire brushing and knife scraping paint remnants is doing the trick!! Will be ready to etch prime soon! (also have to modify for breather first).
Edit 10 Dec - Paint guy has matched original with Dark Blue Hammer plus 10 points.