3 eared wrench

There was a nice chap a Donington selling very well made wrench adaptors for 3 eared spinners. They work with early and late standard spinners and 26R race spinners. Importantly for me they still work with Minilite wheels.

I can highly recommend these (no connection etc…)


I second that. I bought half the things on his stand, including his spinner removal tool. Not cheap, but as in everything, you gets what you pay for. And yes, what a decent guy, from Holland, but living in England for 30 years. Designed the tool himself, and makes it through his engineering company, south of the river, in London. If anybody is interested in his details, i shall post them.

We spoke about the various alternatives from the US, and the spin it off tool, and having hummed and harred for years over buying something to whip the spinners off, i deceided that this was the one to go for.

As always, no connection, or axe to grind.

And lastly, may i say, what a great time i had. Met a lot of interesting and friendly people, though sadly, did not get round to meeting up with everyone i wanted from the forum.

All the best,

Leslie

The wrench interests me could you post or pm some details please?

Ian.

That’s definately a smart looking piece of kit.
Can you post the full details & price please.

Cheers
John

Having had numerous requests for more details; here goes:

dunsfoldmachining.com

Hi

I also spoke to this guy, it is an impressive bit of kit, he had me right up until the price. :frowning:

?120

Jason

There was a thread on this some time ago.

I saw this device at the time the guy first put them on sale. A number of us on this forum did an analysis and went for the Sato version.

I was amused to see there was a Sato wrench on the next stand for ?100. I’m sure he would have taken ?80 - a bargain in comparison.

No Brian, I do not agree. I too saw the Sarto tool on Mike Duffs table. It was the first time i had seen one, and it was clear to me, that, although the Sarto tool had seen very little use, the leather had been seriously compressed where it folds over the edges and doubt whether it will stay the course. The tool that i bought, as did 9 others, WILL LAST A LIFETIME, AND THEN BE PASSED ON! No comparison.

Leslie

Oh, and to the 9 others, I would recomend buying a high impact socket with the same no. of flats as the tool has, not the more serated one that the Dutchman had on his table. No chance of it wearing the corners. I bought one in Halfords today, ?8.

Looks nice but how long will those four screws last at 200 lb/ft? A lifetime? I wonder.
?120 buys lots of copper hammers or 1.5 Sarto’s. :wink:

Roy
'65 S2

I think that the socket you are referiing to is called by many names “Double Hex’”; 12 Point etc.
They are designed to work on the flanks of the nut, not the corners.
Check it out :neutral_face:

What’s a good source for a suitable LH / RH torque wrench that won’t cost the World?

Cheers
John

John,
I looked here before I bought a bargain Britool wrench from ebay.
teng.co.uk/product-details.asp?prod_id=1484

Roy
'65 S2

John,

I believe this is the cheapest you will find, mentioned a while ago in another post:

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_178621_langId_-1_categoryId_165469#dtab

Thanks for the addresses guys.
John

Everyone to his own, Leslie. There?s no problem agreeing to differ on this forum.

For the record:
I had no real problem with the wrench design as such, but when I bought my Sato version it was at a third of the price. Today it?s more like half.

I have to admit to having a problem with the ?Sato? ? my 1? A/F socket had gone missing, and they are not that easy to get in the metric UK these days. However, my brother?s tool chest had 3 sockets, so the problem was solved.

You?re correct in intimating that the leather in the ?Sato? is the weakest link with an obvious limited life. I guess I?ve had the wheels off and on my car about 20 times in the past two years and the state of the leather suggests at that rate about a ten to fifteen years life expectancy with the 225 lbf. ft. torque applications. So, it will see me out.
To replace the leather would be a relatively simple job for anyone with average inteligence and hand dexterity.

So in conclusion, buying the ?Sato? was, as my American friends would say, a no-brainer.

I got a very nice Britool torque wrench off ebay. However that Halfords one looks like a good deal.

Hi Guys, I guess it is time for me to chime in… Steveww, I like the tool that you found. It is not cheap to make. The shinny hex shaft where it’s bolted appears to be metal. The matt black body, is it a composite? It has a recessed center which means that the 26R spinner with the open center should work as mine would not. It looks allot like Ian and Richard’s spinitoff tool. The four bolts will have to take the torque to survive. If there is a notch or a ridge that stops the metal bolted hex shaft from turning then the bolts are just holding the pieces together and the 200 ft/lbs of torque will not bend the 4 bolts.
I had a design very much like theirs, but the cost to make one in the US was way to costly. That is how I ended up with a one piece welded tool. Much cheaper to make.
Now the leather thing. If the tool is not on flat and straight before you apply torque you could pinch the leather. I used " English Saddle hides" tanned the old fashion way. I have replacement leathers for anyone that has damaged their leather to where the steel is or could touch the chrome spinner. As Brian said, you can trace out the shape on leather and cut it out. Most any leather hide shop would be happy to sell a small patch.
I purchased a big box of quality 12 point, 1" sockets with a 1/2 inch drive if anyone is still having problems finding them over there.
If any one needs leathers or sockets, contact me at [email protected]
Torque wrenches-----MAKE SURE THE TORQUE WRENCH IS REVERSIBLE AND RATCHETED—ratcheted just makes it easier— a lot of torque wrenches only torque in one direction. And make sure you dial up the torque to remove the spinner as it takes a little more to break the spinner loose or you might damage the torque wrench.
I am still amazed that it has taken 50 years to come up with a tool that you don’t have to beat spinners on with a hammer. Now there are at least three that use different talents.
Sarto

Must say I’m a satisfied Sarto Tool user; customer service as well can’t be faulted.

Enjoy

Just resending a post I did yesterday in case I did it wrong - although it could be as a new member it has to be passed by the management!!

I run the machine shop that makes the new spinner tool - thanks for all the great feedback. It was designed by Gerard the guy who was selling them at Donington - as an Elan owner with a new set of Ali wheels he was keen to have something better than a copper hide to do them up with. The hex is steel & the main body is 6082-T6 Aluminium which is then Hard anodised

The only other comment at this point is that the 4 x 8mm Bolts are more than adequate to take the torque loading - I used Stainless Steel (Which are not as strong as High tensile) but thought from a corrosion point of view it would be better.

Thanks

Colin Denyer

Hello Colin, You do real nice work and to be able to sell your tool for what you are, I am amazed!! We need to talk as I have other tools that can be done that will not cost anywhere near the milling that you do. The market for them is much, much larger than our Lotus Elans.
Here is the other tool that is similar to Ian and Richard’s tool and is bolted in three places, oldtimertools.com/htdocs/werkzeuge.html
They also have the tool milled out of one single Aluminium billet. It cost me over $300 USD, much more to make one than what they are selling for, Look at the Jaguar-Daimier tool, it is a one piece tool and it looks like they do not have any steel at the connecting point for the breaker bar or a torque wrench, only the softer aluminium, but really can’t tell.

Later, Sarto
[email protected]
707-481-6700