I reveresed my TR7V8 out this morning to find the bonnet covered in coolant, the +2 lives on the which lives on the 4 post ramp above it is the cause, it’s running out of the water pump at a considerable rate, so it looks like I need to replace it.
I bought the parts to re-build the pump and a timing chain and the chain guide years ago from QED with the intention of sorting out some of the oil leaks, I also have a spare front cover so I can build the pump up beforehand it now looks like I will have to do it sooner rather than later.
Apart from the leaks the engine runs fine with no overheating or knocks and reasonable oil pressure (35psi at 2000rpm when hot) also up until I parked it last week (it started leaking yesterday while parked) it never used a drop of coolant, as I use it in the summer I want to repair it as quickly as possible, so the plan is:
Pull off head complete with carbs etc,
remove radiator
remove sump
change pump/ front cover
and re-assemble.
In addition to the above I may paint the engine block as it has been repainted in hamerite which is now flaking off.
I reckon this should easily be do-able in one weekend, I know I could re-cut valves etc and check crank bearings but I know this will lead to a virtual engine re-build which at the moment I don’t have time or funds for, so as it all works fine I plan to leave well alone.
Is there anything I haven’t thought of?
Also any recomendations on the best gaskets to use?
Also what colour should the engine be, mine is a late car and the original engine colour seems to be dark red block with black sump and unpainted head not the usual grey.
If you are dropping the sump, you should at least take a look at the bearings. There should be no copper visible. If you have some plastigage measure the clearances.
If they are good, you will be comfortable in that knowledge; if not, you might get away with new shells, and at least you haven’t been acting the ostrich
On close inspection because I have fitted a type 9 transmission and matching 1 piece sandwich plate I can’t get access to the rearmost sump bolts with the engine in. I therefore will have to remove the engine, so I have revised the plan much as you suggested, check the bottom end over thoroughly and refit the head as is because this can easily be removed later for further work.
I have an Alan Voigts T9 conversion which fits with the normal dust plates.
I have found it very convenient to be able to drop the sump with the engine in place to check/replace bearings.
As there is no main attachment points below the sump joint line you might consider cutting the sandwich plate transversely to allow access to the rear sump bolts.
(I suppose it might be possible use a shorter input shaft and eliminate the sandwich plate)
BTW, how thick is the sandwich plate, and how far back from the dashboard is the gear lever on your T9 ?
I have used a type 9 bell housing as well (lhd) which puts the starter in a slightly different place, but I will be looking at cutting the plate so the lower part can be removed, I will probably cut it just above the starter on the RH side so the starter bolts retain it and below the lower engine bolt on the LH side as there is a smaller M6 bolt down there to retain it.
It is only a thin plate so I did think of cutting it in situ using a dremel but as it will only take another hour or so to get the engine out I figured this would make the whole job easier anyway.
The gearstick is about 8 inches further back and cranked forward so the knob is only a couple of inches further back, It is perfectly comfortable to use for me (6’4") and my wife 5’3", though it could do with being a bit shorter (another job on the to do list!).