Whilst I am still in the “theory” stages of my +2 rebuild I’m just trying to form some sort of plan for which way to go so I don’t have to undo things at a later date.
My part (70%) finished 1968 +2 has a part fitted new wiring loom (I’m dreading to think of all the relays, resistors and other electrickery I’ll need but that’s for a later post )
Anyway it came with its original dynamo (overhauled) and someone mentioned switching the car to an alternator and neg. earth system.
What is the concensus here? Keep the car original and use the dynamo, or switch to neg earth whilst vehicle is in bits. It looks like the loom was made for early to late +2s with all of its extra bits attatched.
Which way of installation will be best and/or most cost effective at this stage…the answers I recieve here will determine what I need to purchase, as I need the wiring done before I can progress.
I’ll breathe a sigh of relief when this jobs over as it’s the one I’m dreading…as well as the headlining…glass…doors, leccie windows…etc.
I am hoping to leave my theory desk alone for a few months and get my hands dirty soon…Donnington 2007 is my target
Edited to add that non complicated answers would be most appreciated as when it comes to electrics this is the guy who pays Maglite engineers to come and change the batteries in his torch
No contest…change to an alternator, IMHO probably one of the best upgrades you can do to an Elan…you will get back replys saying the generator works fine…sure it does but its funny I know of no manufacturer that fits a generator these days
I use my +2s on a daily basis all year round and, as I try to keep it as original as practical, it’s still fitted with a dynamo. For most of the year it’s perfectly adequate but at this time of year a little forward planning is called for. If you have any great distance to cover in bad weather with lights,heater and wipers running you will gradually see your bettery go flat and must remember to put it on charge overnight for next mornings start. Also if you spend a lot of time stop start commuting with extra electrics on the same applies.
It’s not the end of the world just a nuisance.
The ideal situation is to be able to drive at 2,000rpm plus for most of your journey and it’s OK.
If it’s to be a weekend driver I personally would not bother to convert to alternator
I’ve never been caught out yet but carry jump leads for just that eventuality.
Regards
Dave
Dave it will deffo be a weekend car at most, just ambling around a few shows in the summer. Interesting to hear you suffer no real problems, that’s very good to hear, thanks.
Well I have, … 2 AM in the morning on a lonely road with no garage open or even stocking lucas bits for a couple of hundred miles, or watching the red light glow and wondering if I’ll make it to the the overnight stop in a rally…
no! you can keep the originallity …
I think there is a little more to it then just fitting a alternator, are the windows free in the runners? are the motors still good? how are the earths? are the wireing/connections old? are you getting voltage drop? how are the switches?
an alternator is not a miracle cure for other faults but it is much more reliable and maintainance free.
It makes little difference to the slow windows and dim lights whether you have a dynamo or alternator. If they are still poor with a freshly charged battery, it is most likely due to voltage loss in undersized wiring and corroded connectors. Check by making a direct connection (and earth)
But an alternator will keep you going when a dynamo would not be able to keep up with large and long time loads…
And an alternator definitely generates more than a dynamo at low speeds.
Remember, an alternator will cope with all the load you can throw at it in an Elan where a dynamo will depend upon a good battery under high load conditions.
As someone who has just returned to the Elan fold after many years absence, I had two specific mindsets;
Alternator ILO dynamo
Solid driveshatfs ILO donuts.
This mindset was influenced totally from my old S2 experiences.
One of the attractions of the Sprint I bought was it had already been converted with an alternator, and I am now about to fit a set of Mick Miller driveshatfs.
However, it has to be said that for the occasional weekend jollies I have in mind, neither of these conversions are really necessary, but I shall feel happier knowing that I shall benefit from better reliability in the long term.
And yes, what the other guys are suggesting is very relevant ? trebble check cable connections as it seems doubly important on plastic bodied cars.
Brian wrote-:
“Well I have, … 2 AM in the morning on a lonely road with no garage open or even stocking lucas bits for a couple of hundred miles, or watching the red light glow and wondering if I’ll make it to the the overnight stop in a rally…
no! you can keep the originallity …”
The first thing I noticed when I converted to an alternator was that the window speed doubled. And that was before I installed relays and 14 gauge wire for them!
The second thing I noticed was that with the generator (dynamo), if I put on my indicator signal while approaching a stop sign, as soon as I let off the gas and the revs fell, so would the speed of the indicators. With an alternator, not only do the indicators flash at a more rapid speed, but the speed is maintained as I coast to a stop.
The conversion isn’t that expensive if you have access to a junk yard, a few scraps of steel, and a welder (for the brackets). As a side benefit, you’ll free up some space where the voltage regulator went so that you can install a proper fuse box. Good luck.
Frank, your comments make sense especially the extra space created with the loss of the VR, also my voltage reg. for the dynamo looks like its seen better days so not having to replace that should help with the cost of the alternator swap, plus I can sell the refurbed dynamo.
My only other worry is people have said the rev counter will not like the new system and I need a part in the loom to compensate for this.
Just wish I had a drawing and a parts list of what was required as I know with my electrical numptiness I’ll drop a big b0llock
Kenny,
Here is a link that may help you, I did not do my own rev counter I had a pro convert it as I had not seen this site at the time. freespace.virgin.net/tommy.sandh … ersion.htm
Top article Brian, cheers. After having a good read of it it seems not as straightforward as people would have you believe. I know a good hands electronic chap who has installed quite a few engine looms for people in the motorsport field when they have gone the ECU and throttle body route. He did the loom on a Vauxhaull Caterham I had when I went from 45’S to Jenveys and a 3D mapped ignition.
Just would like to do it myself without asking favours, but if that article you posted is true I don’t fancy my chances of a first time fix without causing some damge somewhere along the line, it does seem to be more complicated than I first assumed.
As others have said I may bottle it this time and just run the dynamo for a while then switch at a later date if needed.
I read the Cortina link out of interest and found very comprehensive - and hence simple to do. The only difficult thing as I see it is get the tacho out and back in again.
Where’s your sense of adventure? These forums are meant to encourage people to do things, not chicken out.
BCM, owning a Lotus IS an adventure maybe Kenny doesn’t want that much excitment but I agree,go for it …so you mess it up you can then send it in to the pro’s…all it costs is money
I need to edit this post!..Kenny has had two Caterhams so maybe hes had TOO much excitment
Just had a quick sulk I’m going to have a dabble at this. I served my time as a toolmaker and I’m not scared of metal and nuts and bolts etc., but me and soldering irons don’t mix
Seriously I know what I am going to do and as stated if I make a b@lls I can confer
The first thing I noticed when I converted to an alternator was that the window speed doubled. And that was before I installed relays and 14 gauge wire for them!
Frank,
I am interested in knowing how and where did you fit the relays for the windows. Where did you get the power from to feed the 14 gauge wire? My windows have always appeared a little slow, and as I currently have the facia removed, it would be an ideal opportunity to do some rewiring in preparation for next winter’s planned work on the doors.
I binned the standard Lucas 2 slot fuse box and installed two 8 slot fuse boxes from waytekwire.com (Part # 46051). One box is always hot and the other is hot when the key is in position I or II. They are mounted adjacent to each other, so they look like one 16 slot box. I went to the junk yard and found that Nissan cars feature nice neat plastic relay boxes that hold 4, 5, 6, 8, or 10 relay sockets. The sockets are interchangable. I picked up an 8 gang model complete with 8 sockets and 8 relays. I fabricated an aluminium bracket that holds the Nissan box and mounted it on the inner fender (wing) where the washer bag usually hangs. Then I mounted the washer bag on the inner edge of the bracket.
The windows require two relays each, one for up and one for down. I ran 14 gauge wire from one of the fuse boxes to each relay and then on to the window motors. The original 16 gauge wire was preserved running it from the switches to the relays rather than to the window motors.